Memorial Day, as always, has come around much faster than expected. Seems it was May 1 just a few days ago, but here we are, preparing for our first big weekend of the soon-to-be-summer.

I’m determined not to climb on my soapbox today, venting my feelings about war in general, or our two current wars specifically.

I will say only what I’ve said before, when reading about young men and women blinded or losing limbs and lives, even one is too many.

In our large, extended family, Memorial Day is the first of three big summer gatherings, with anywhere from four to eight families coming together to get reacquainted and share food, memories and fun.

Ages will range from babes in arms to over 90, with everything in between. One or two faces will be missing and much missed; and another one or two will be brand new and replacing the lost. If we’re very lucky, the weather will cooperate and we won’t have to deal with kids in close quarters or blue tarps spread over picnic tables.

Piles of oysters ready to be shucked, steamers loaded with clams, a huge pot of chowder, mounds of Hood Canal shrimp, platters of fresh-out-of-the-pot Dungeness crab, and one or two poached salmon will be the highlights of the picnic table, supplemented by everyone’s favorite contributions to the potluck. I’ll be watching to see if anyone comes up with a new and spectacular side dish or dessert, for which I can hopefully wrangle a recipe.

Yes, we have family members we lost to war; one buried in the small Shelton cemetery next to his parents, others far away, in England. Burying my dashing, handsome, fun-loving Uncle Buddy in Shelton, when I was 11, was one of the first heartbreaks of my life, planting the seeds of my ever-growing anger about the wasteful, destructive human conflict we call war. There will be flowers on his grave, as always, come Monday.

But, there will also be a lot of laughter, friendship, fun and food. We have a lot of very fine cooks in our family, all trying to outdo each other.

Whether the occasion is sad or funny, ceremonial or silly, nothing happens without food, and I’m eagerly looking forward to Memorial Day, even if it did sneak up on us.

RECIPES

The basic requirements for Memorial Day food are flavor, flavor and flavor. And whatever you prepare, it should feed at least 8 if it’s for a picnic potluck.

Other than that, I’d say it’s probably not a good idea to try out something you’ve never done before on a crowd that expects to find all the favorites on the picnic table, even though I’m always on the lookout for something out of the ordinary. The following recipes are tried and true survivors of many a family picnic.

This pasta salad recipe will feed about 20 people and I’ve never had any leftovers. A number of years ago, I used this recipe in a column; I’m repeating it for any and all who didn’t see it then. You may need to have a stickum note or card nearby explaining that this is pasta, however, because the “frog eyes” (acini di pepe pasta) look like tapioca.

JUNE’S FROG EYE SALAD

1 cup sugar (yes, you can use sugar substitute)

2 T. flour

1½ t. salt

1¾ cups pineapple juice

2 eggs, well beaten

1 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 qts. water

1 T. vegetable oil

1 pkg. (16 oz.) acini di pepe (look in the pasta section; or substitute orzo)

3 cans (11 oz. each) mandarin orange sections, drained

2 cans (20 oz.) pineapple chunks, drained

1 can (20 oz.) crushed pineapple, drained

1 carton (9 oz.) whipped dairy topping

1 cup mini marshmallows (optional; I don’t use them because I really dislike them, but kids love this salad with the marshmallows)

1 cup shredded coconut

In a saucepan, combine the sugar, flour and ½ t. of the salt. Gradually stir in the pineapple juice and beaten eggs. Cook over med. heat until thickened, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, add lemon juice; cool mixture to room temp.

Bring water to boil, add remaining 2 t. salt and oil. Add acini and cook at rolling boil until done according to package directions, Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again and cool to room temp.

Combine egg mixture and acini. Mix lightly but thoroughly; refrigerate overnight in an airtight container.

When ready to finish salad, add remaining ingredients; mixing lightly but thoroughly. Refrigerate in airtight container until well chilled. Serve chilled. This salad may be refrigerated for up to a week in an airtight container, which means you could make it well ahead and not have to worry about last-minute prep. Serves 20.

What’s a potluck without some version of baked beans? This pot of beans is what you would have to call “kicked up.” You can do the overnight soak if that’s what you’re used to; I use the “quick soak” method for almost any recipe that uses dried beans. It’s much easier. See note at the end of the recipe for that method, if you’re not already familiar with it.

Every year, I look forward to my niece’s tortellini salad; it’s one of those unique dishes that became a favorite.

GINA’S TORTELLINI SALAD

For the dressing: ¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic, crushed through a garlic press

½ t. salt

¼ t. freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

For the salad:

2 lbs. cheese tortellini

1 jar (24 oz.) pickled vegetables (giardinera), drained, coarsely chopped

6 oz. Genoa-style salami cut in ¼-inch slices, then cut in half

1 cup garlic-stuffed green olives, coarsely chopped

1½ large red peppers, roasted, seeded and cut into ½-inch squares

3 scallions, white and green parts, chopped

3 T. chopped fresh basil (or oregano or parsley or a mix of all)

To make dressing, place vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper in a blender. With machine running, gradually add oil; process until thick and smooth. Set aside.

Cook tortellini in boiling salted water according to pkg. instructions. Drain, rinse under cold running water, drain well.

Transfer tortellini to a large bowl. Add the giardinera, salami, olives, red pepper, scallions and basil. Toss with ¾ of the dressing, covering and reserving the remaining dressing. Cover the salad and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hrs. and up to 6 hrs. (If you’re making the salad the night before, toss it with only half the dressing, reserving the other half.) Just before serving, toss salad lightly with reserved dressing, taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Serve chilled. Serves 10.

Note: Gina sometimes uses bunches of chives instead of scallions.

KAHLUA BAKED BEANS

1 lb. dried navy beans, rinsed and picked over

1/2 lb. sliced bacon, cut into pieces

2 cups finely chopped onion (this is really excellent if you can use sweet onions)

1 bottle (12 oz.) chili sauce

1/2 cup tomato-based barbecue sauce, preferably smoke style

1/2 cup Kahlua liqueur

1/2 cup strong coffee

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/4 cup unsulfured molasses

2 T. thick, spicy steak sauce (such as Heinz 57 or A-1)

2 T. Tabasco (go lighter if you think this may be too hot for your friends)

1/2 t salt, or to taste

Soak beans overnight in enough water to cover. Drain. In a large pot, cover beans generously with fresh cold water. Set pot over med. heat and bring water to a boil, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring once or twice, for 1 hr. or more, until beans are soft but still holding their shape. (Don’t salt beans at this stage, it will toughen them). Drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the bean cooking liquid.

Cook the bacon in a large skillet until crispy. Remove from pan and pour off all but 1 T. of the fat. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 min.

Combine the beans with the reserved cooking liquid, bacon, onions and all remaining ingredients. Transfer to a heavy 4-5 qt. casserole or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 min. Remove the lid, stir the beans and continue baking, uncovered, 30 min. more. Stir again and continue baking another 40 min., until beans are very thick, stirring occasionally. The beans are now ready to serve or can be cooled, covered and refrigerated. Reheat next day over med.-low heat. Serves 10-12.

Note: To use quick soak method, put beans in a pot with water just to cover. Bring to a boil, boil beans for 5 min. then remove from heat, cover and allow beans to sit for one hour. Then proceed with recipe, draining and recovering as instructed above if you desire, but I prefer to continue with the water the beans soaked in. Cooking lore has it that this cuts down on beans’ propensity to create unwanted “air”; maybe, but I just think it gives the beans more flavor.