It’s all the rage these days, apologizing; senators, governors, golfers, politicians of every caliber, actors and actresses, popes and priests, they’re all doing it.
In fact, it’s becoming downright tiresome.
What? Another apology? Ho-hum.
Nevertheless, I’m apologizing today for the Easter column about pancakes/flapjacks. I have been chided by several readers for seeming to imply that pancakes would be fine for a Seder meal, when we know that leavening of any kind is taboo during that holy season.
I made the mistake of trying to keep the verbiage to a minimum so the recipes could be maximum, and thus the lack of clarity in my comments re: Passover.
My Jewish sister, who lives in New York, would have nailed my hide to the wall, had she read the column, but she is the one who actually introduced me, years ago, to matzo pancakes, made with no leaven of any sort and acceptable for a Seder meal. I’m rather fond of them, she isn’t.
I didn’t include that in my flapjack recipes because the resulting “cakes” are not really like pancakes at all; they’re more like large, soft crackers of some sort, but they’re tasty with sweetened berries, and the recipe does refer to them as “pancakes.”
Before anyone posts comments on my “Jewish sister,” let me also clarify that situation.
My sister is Jewish by marriage and choice, not by birth, and I’m sure you can imagine the consternation that caused in our predominately Episcopalian family when it first occurred. We all got over it long ago, however, as we gradually fell in love with her funny, story-telling, fun-loving husband, who also happens to be a sports writer/TV commentator/author, and is referred to in New York as “The Hockey Maven.”
Over the years, we’ve shared good times and fine food at bar mitzvahs, Hanukkah, Passover (as well as Christmas and Easter), and even a Bris (Bris Milah), during which our mother almost fainted. Sis and
I exchange recipes, of course, and whenever we’re together, all of our family members know what’s coming, as the two of us try to out-cook each other.
She firmly believes she’s the better cook; I know otherwise, naturally.
When she leaves after a visit, my refrigerator is full of odd, exotic items she buys to make some special dish, then leaves behind for me to deal with.
Her matzo ball soup, by the way, is the best I’ve ever eaten, except of course, for my own version.
I just realized that I don’t know how to say “I apologize” in Yiddish, and I can’t call my sister to ask her because she’s currently visiting her son and new granddaughter in Israel.
I’ll e-mail her, however, and hopefully learn a new Jewish phrase, although my sister firmly believes she’s right about everything and I’m not sure I’ve ever heard her apologize for anything, in any language.
I will also e-mail her this column, with no apologies.
RECIPES
Here’s one of my sister’s recipes for a flourless chocolate cake, obviously suitable for Passover, but delicious anytime.
CHOCOLATE ALMOND CAKE
1 cup sliced or slivered almonds, toasted
1 T. plus 1 cup sugar, divided
¾ cup butter
½ cup cocoa powder (not sweetened)
5 eggs, separated
1/8 t. salt
Additional sliced almonds, for garnish
Honey
Preheat oven to
375 degrees and lightly grease the bottom of a 10-inch tube pan.
Place toasted almonds and 1 T. sugar in the bowl of a food processor; process to a fine grind and set aside.
Melt the butter, stir in the cocoa, and set aside to cool. In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with ¾ cup sugar until pale yellow in color. Add the cocoa mixture and salt; mix well. Stir in ground almonds.
In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Gradually add remaining
¼ cup sugar, beating until egg whites are stiff but not dry.
Add about ¾ of the egg whites to the chocolate mixture and stir to blend. Gradually fold in remaining egg whites. Pour into the prepared pan and bake 40 to 45 min., or until set (should not give when tapped lightly). Remove from oven and cool for 10 min., then unmold (run a knife around sides) and remove bottom. Allow to cool completely on a rack.
When ready to serve, decorate with almonds and drizzle with honey (my sister often adds thin apple slices on top, as well). Serves 12.
Note: To toast almonds: Place almonds in a single layer on a shallow baking pan and bake 7-8 min. in a 350-degree oven, until light golden brown. Cool completely.
And, just to keep the friendly rivalry going, here is one of my several recipes for flourless chocolate cake, among my favorite desserts.
COCONUT TOPPED FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE
1 lb. (16 oz.) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, divided (see instructions; don’t use unsweetened)
10 T. unsalted butter
6 extra-large eggs, separated
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup sweetened flaked coconut, toasted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a 10-inch cake pan, then line the bottom with parchment paper.
Stir 10 oz. of the chocolate and the butter together in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water; stir until both are melted and mixture is smooth. Remove bowl from over the water and set aside to cool slightly.
In another bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar to blend. Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites in another bowl just until peaks form. First fold the yolk mixture, then the chocolate mixture gently into the egg whites, just until blended. Transfer batter to the prepared pan, gently tapping the pan on the counter to eliminate bubbles in the batter. Bake until a tester inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 min. Transfer cake to a rack and cool completely (center will sink; don’t panic). Press outer edges of cake down gently to level the top.Run a thin knife around pan sides to release cake; turn cake out onto a rack and peel off the parchment paper. Invert cake onto a platter.
Place remaining 6 oz. chocolate in a bowl. In a small saucepan, bring whipping cream to a boil; pour over the chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Pour this mixture onto the cake, spreading it just to the edges. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and refrigerate cake until the chocolate topping is set (about 2 hrs.) Keep uneaten cake refrigerated. Serves 8-10.
Here’s another flourless chocolate dessert recipe, one my sister used to make for family get-togethers. For obvious reasons (heavy cream, butter, chocolate chips), we seldom make this now, saving it for times when there will be lots of kids around to finish it off. It’s very rich and I dare you to take only one bite. I tell myself it’s healthy because the crust is granola.
CHOCOLATE PIE WITH GRANOLA CRUST
4 cups granola, crushed to remove lumps
1/2 cup butter, melted
2/3 cup finely chopped nuts (your choice)
1 pkg. (12 oz.) semisweet chocolate chips (I use 12 oz. 72% or more bittersweet chocolate)
6 T. milk
4 T. sugar
8 eggs, separated
2 t. vanilla
2 cups heavy cream
Combine granola, melted butter and nuts; mix well. Press mixture firmly into the bottom of a buttered 9×13 baking dish; bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 15 min. Remove from oven and allow crust to cool.
In a double boiler over simmering water, combine chocolate, milk and sugar. Whisk as chocolate melts. Remove from heat; allow to cool a bit so the eggs con’t curdle, then add egg yolks one at a time, whisking briskly after each addition. Stir in vanilla.
Beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Mix about 1/3 of the whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten, then gently fold in remaining whites. Beat 1 cup of the cream until it holds soft peaks and fold it into the chocolate mixture. Pour into the cooked, cooled crust, cover and refrigerate several hours, or overnight. Just before serving, beat remaining 1 cup of cream and spread it over the top. Dust with grated chocolate or chocolate curls, if desired. Serves 10-12.
