Today, as I’m sure you’ve noted, is Ash Wednesday. If you’re not Christian, it matters little, although similar periods of fasting and inner evaluation also occur in other religions.

In some countries, Ash Wednesday is considered a national holiday, with businesses and government offices closed; in Canada and the United States, it is not observed as a holiday, but most churches hold special services to mark the day, which is the beginning of the Lenten season.

For practicing Christians, the 40 days of Lent typically include some form of fasting or going without certain foods, along with recognizing one’s sins and resolving to be a better person. Ashes, usually the residue of palms burned after being used on Palm Sunday the previous year, are symbolic of sorrow for sins committed as well as a reminder of our mortality.

During my growing up years, as Ash Wednesday approached, we kids always asked each other, more or less jokingly, “What are you giving up for Lent?” even though many of us were not regular church goers, let alone Catholic.

More often than not, our answers were things such as “spinach” or “vegetables,” even though we knew full well our mothers would not let us give up any such thing, for Lent or any other reason. My mother instead regularly suggested that I give up candy, which was, for me, not an option.

Whether or not you observe Ash Wednesday or Lent, it is nevertheless as good a time as any to take stock of where you are and, perhaps, what you are, as you make your way along this road we all travel, from birth to death. As the saying goes, “can’t hurt, might help.”

If someone asked me today what I’m giving up for Lent, my first thought would be “nothing,” because I’m a lapsed Christian, if there is such a thing, and am not observing the ritual Ash Wednesday.

But, it still causes me to give a good deal of reluctant thought to habits, traits, actions, ideas that may have crept into my daily life that I’m not particularly happy about and should consider giving up, and not just for Lent.

No, I’m not going to bore you with the list, but yes, I do have a thing or two

I have, after all, decided to try giving up during Lent, in the hope that whatever replaces them will be a lasting improvement. Candy — which for me means dark chocolate — is not one of those things.

RECIPES

These days, who knows what “fasting” means; going without take-out or fast food for 40 days?

No dessert?

Lay off the latte or caramel macchioto? Go without the two or three diet sodas?

Some eat fish, but no red meat; others forego all but vegetarian meals.

Personally, during the Lenten season and because it’s also the perfect time of year for it, I think SOUP! Hearty, good for both body and soul, a bowl of soup can make any Lenten meal a feast. This peppy shrimp soup looks complicated; it’s not, and you can make it meatless (using only seafood) if you wish.

THAI LEMON SHRIMP SOUP

1 lb. uncooked large shrimp, peeled and deveined (reserve shells for broth)

3 cups water

2 cups bottled clam nectar

1 onion, sliced

8 slices fresh ginger (as close to quarter-size as possible)

6 T. fresh lemon juice

2 jalapeno chilies, split lengthwise (remove seeds and membrane unless you want the added “heat”)

2 bay leaves

1 T. grated lemon peel

½ t. whole black peppercorns

1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk

½ lb. wafer-thin

boneless pork loin chops,

cut into thin strips (optional if you’re going without

meat; you could substitute scallops, or more shrimp)

1 skinless boneless half chicken breast, cut crosswise into thin strips (also optional if you’re going “meatless”)

1 T. fish sauce

2 T. garlic chili sauce

3 cups hot cooked white rice

¼ cup chopped green onions

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise, cover and chill. Combine shrimp shells, water and the next 8 ingredients (through peppercorns) in a large saucepan. Cover and simmer for 30 min. Strain the broth and return to saucepan.

Add coconut milk to the broth. Bring to a simmer. Add pork, if using; cook

3 min., then add chicken, if using, and shrimp. Simmer just until shrimp (and pork and chicken, if using) are cooked through, only about 3 min. Stir in fish sauce and garlic chili sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide rice and soup among 4 warmed bowls; sprinkle with onions and cilantro and serve.

The very word “chowder” carries a connotation of comfort food and, during Lent, fish is often the alternative to meat. So, a fish chowder on a chilly February evening just may be a very welcome supper, whether you’re feasting or fasting.

SMOKED SALMON CHOWDER

2 T. butter

2 cups chopped onion

2 bottles (8 oz.) clam nectar

1 lb. red skinned potatoes, sliced into ¼-inch thick rounds

1½ T. chopped fresh thyme

1½ cups half and half

2-3 cups milk (depending upon your preference for chowder thickness)

8 oz. smoked salmon or trout, torn into small pieces

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over med. heat. Add onions; sauté until soft, about 5 min. Add clam nectar, potatoes and thyme. Cover and simmer until potatoes are just tender, stirring occasionally, about 10-12 min. Add half and half and milk (and yes, you may use all half and half, if preferred, or even make it half cream and half milk) and salmon/trout. Simmer 10 min. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately in warmed bowls, with a tossed green salad and some crusty bread. Serves 4.

And finally, because fish is so often very much present on Lenten menus, here’s a quick and easy way to prepare an outstanding salmon dinner.

SALMON ROASTED WITH ROSEMARY

6-8 stalks fresh rosemary

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

1 center cut salmon fillet with skin (about 2 lb., preferably wild caught)

2 large lemons, thinly sliced

1/3 cup quality olive oil

Arrange half the rosemary sprigs in a single layer in the center of a heavy baking sheet. Arrange sliced onion on top of the rosemary, then place the salmon, skin side down on top of the onion slices. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover the salmon with the remaining rosemary sprigs and arrange the lemon slices over the rosemary. Drizzle olive oil over all. Sprinkle lemon slices with salt.

Roast the salmon in a preheated 500-degree oven until just cooked through (DON’T OVERCOOK!) Depending on the thickness of the fillet, it could be anywhere from 10 to 20 min., but just until salmon flakes when you test it with a fork but is still barely opaque. Transfer salmon to a warmed platter; serve with the roasted onion and lemon slices. Serves 4.

Margaret Walton can be reached at falwalcal@msn.com.