It’s back! Seems like only yesterday when I last did this, but here it is again, the inevitable Time To Talk About Zucchini.

Do I have to do it? It would appear so, because every year about this time, I begin to get e-mails asking if I’ve any new zucchini recipes. Come on, folks; do I have any new zucchini recipes?

Of course I have; when it comes to zucchini, I have ancient recipes, old recipes, middle-aged recipes, teen-age recipes and yes, new recipes.

It’s odd, considering that I loathed squash of any kind as a child. It made me gag, which was a sound that made my mother livid if she heard it at the dinner table, so I became very creative at making it disappear somewhere other than in my mouth. (Don’t ask.) Once I left for college and had some control over what I ate, I managed to avoid squash of any sort, until I found myself married to a man who loved the stuff, all varieties of squash, summer or winter. Ooops!

Buying groceries and learning to cook while on a very slender budget does change one’s attitude about many things. During the early years of that marriage, I did, in fact, discover that squash was both inexpensive and nutritious, and that it was possible to make it palatable by adding a wide variety of other ingredients to the basically bland vegetable. Especially zucchini.

You’d think there would come a time when everything that could be done with zucchini has been done and re-done, but every year I’m surprised to spot some new twist, some new off-the-wall suggestion for what to do with the almost certain over-abundance of zucchini. Some of those suggestions are pretty basic and some are just plain tasteless (in more ways than one, I might add), but occasionally I’m pleasantly surprised, and another recipe is added to my ever growing Zucchini File.

So, when your neighbor unloads those “extra” zucchini on your porch, remind yourself that, come January, you’ll be standing in the produce section at the market looking at $1.29 a pound for “Italian Squash,” and wishing it was August again.

RECIPES

Let’s begin with an Italian salad that can almost be a main course itself, and is especially appealing this time of year because, if you’re lucky, you might even pick most of the ingredients from your own garden, or maybe your neighbor’s.

TORCOLOTI (Zucchini Salad)

1 1/2 lbs. small white potatoes

1 cup quality olive oil

1/4 cup (more if you like) minced fresh Italian parsley, or cilantro if preferred

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 lb. slender young zucchini

1 lb. thin fresh green beans

1 cup fresh carrot slices (as thinly cut as possible)

2 heads lettuce (whatever is available, fresh; your favorite salad lettuce)

3/4 cup white wine vinegar, or rice wine vinegar

1 t. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 t. fresh minced or crushed basil leaves

2 cloves garlic, minced or put through a garlic press

Boil the potatoes, in their skins, in salted water until just tender (do not overcook or they’ll be mushy.) Drain and chill. When they’re cold, peel then thickly slice them. Put slices in a large bowl with 3 T. of the olive oil, the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Toss potato slices lightly to coat and set aside until ready to serve the salad.

Slice the zucchini 1/4-inch thick, cutting on the bias if they are very slender. Drop the slices into boiling salted water and cook them for 5 min., no more. Drain, run cold water over them, drain well and chill.

Trim and wash the green beans; cut them into 1-inch lengths. Drop into the boiling salted water and cook until just barely tender but still crunchy. Run cold water over them, drain and chill.

Wash the lettuce and pat leaves dry (or use spinner); tear into bite sized pieces.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining olive oil, vinegar, basil and garlic; add salt and pepper to taste. Either whisk well or put in blender to combine thoroughly. (Note: This dressing may be a bit tart for some tastes; if so, add a bit of honey, to taste).

When ready to serve, combine all vegetables in with the potatoes, pour the dressing over them and toss lightly until everything is evenly coated. Add additional salt and pepper, if necessary; serve. Serves 6-8.

Note: If you lift each vegetable out of the boiling water with a sieve or “spider” type dipper, you can use the same pot of boiling water to blanch/cook each of the vegetables.

Zucchini pancakes? Why yes, of course; these Greek-style pancakes are light and fluffy, a fine meal for brunch, or a light supper. Use your food processor to make quick work of grating the zucchini.

ZUCCHINI FETA PANCAKES

4 eggs, separated (you can use as many or all of the yolks or none of them, in this recipe)

4 cups packed coarsely grated zucchini

1 cup finely crumbled feta cheese

1/2 cup finely minced scallions

1 T. fresh, finely minced mint (or 1 t. dried)

Salt, to taste (remember, feta cheese is naturally salty) and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup flour

Oil for frying

Yogurt or sour cream, for topping (I use Greek style plain yogurt, a favorite)

Beat egg whites until stiff.

In a bowl, combine the zucchini, egg yolks (if you’re using them), feta, scallions, mint, salt and pepper, and flour. Mix well.

Fold beaten egg whites into the zucchini mixture. Heat a little oil in a heavy skillet and when it is very hot (a drop of water should sizzle or hop in the oil) add spoonfuls of the batter. Fry on both sides until golden and crisp. Serve immediately with sour cream or yogurt for topping. (I love to top with Greek yogurt and then just a small drizzle of honey).

If you’re a big fan of fresh mussels, this recipe will sound strange, but if you eat mussels often, this could be a refreshing change. It’s a quick, delicious mussel dinner for two, accompanied by a crisp, green salad.

MUSSELS IN ZUCCHINI SAUCE

2 cups chopped onion

2 T. unsalted butter

2-4 cloves garlic (to your preference), minced

3/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth

1/3 cup heavy cream

3 T. fresh fine bread crumbs

2 zucchini, scrubbed, cut in half lengthwise and then cut into 1/8-inch slices

2 lbs. mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded, if necessary

1/3 cup minced fresh parsley leaves

In a large pot or kettle, cook the onion in the butter over med. heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add the garlic and cook mixture for 1 more min. Stir in the wine, simmer mixture for 2 min., then stir in the cream and bread crumbs. Bring the mixture to a simmer, add the zucchini and mussels. Steam the mixture, covered, for 3 min., or until zucchini is crisp-tender and mussels are opened. (Discard any that do not open). Stir in the parsley and salt to taste; divide between 2 soup plates and serve with some crusty bread to dip in the sauce. Serves 2.