There was a great deal of crabbing and consternation going on last week near where we live in Sandy Hook, when crab traps were found high and dry on the beach of Cultus Bay during the annual June low, low tides.

Normally, this is something that might occur when novices begin crabbing; it’s not always easy for newbies to understand the extremes of our tides during certain times of the year.

But these traps were not set by novices; they were allegedly and apparently set out by members of the Tulalip Tribes. However, the fact that Ray Fryberg, Tulalip fisheries director, was quoted as saying he was surprised they would be there because “we have a lot better grounds closer to home” leads me to wonder if these particular tribal members were, in fact, novices. But even if they were, an even more compelling question is why did they not come back to pick up their traps.

Those of us who have been crabbing since forever in the salt waters of Puget Sound and Hood Canal know a few things about the process, and we don’t need the state fisheries department to tell us that leaving crabs in traps, exposed or otherwise, is just plain inexcusable. Yes, there are times when the weather kicks up so badly that we who fish from smaller vessels are simply unable to get back out to our traps for possibly 24 hours, but even then the crabs are still well submerged in their normal habitat, just not able to “travel.”

When Dungeness crabs are pulled out of their pressure and temperature range, they stop eating. Until then, they will continue to eat anything that drifts their way, even if they’re in a trap, including any and all bait in the trap. So, a well-baited trap can sustain a few captured crabs until the pot owner is able to retrieve them, so long as they remain submerged. If, however, this goes on for days, they’ll finally resort to cannibalism.

Yes, it irritates me, to put it mildly, that we (non-Indians) would be fined more than $500 if our traps, which are clearly marked with our name and address, were found in the same condition as the Tulalip traps, and

I have come to believe that some regulation of tribal fishing should be put in place if they can’t or won’t do it themselves. I’ve personally seen and yes, have been the victim of blatant abuses of their fishing “privileges,” and before you start sending me e-mails and/or comments about that remark, just for your information, I spent many growing-up years on a reservation near Shelton and many hours fishing and shellfish harvesting with Indian friends.

If you can’t or don’t trap your own Dungeness and are, instead, trying to buy fresh Dungeness crab anywhere in our area, I suggest you insist on knowing the source of the crab. If the person you’re buying from indicates it came from the Tulalip Tribes, pass it up. Perhaps they’ll get the message if we all refuse to purchase any Tulalip crab, fresh, frozen or canned, until we know they have to abide by the same rules of the game we all do.

RECIPES

Personally, I think there is no finer seafood on the face of the earth than Dungeness crab (followed by Pacific oysters), but only if it’s been out of the water a short time. Every minute counts, and cooking crab at home or on the beach near where it came from is always the preferred treatment. Remember, as noted in the column, live crab in a tank or bucket stopped eating when they were taken up from their submerged habitat and may be going downhill, depending upon how long ago that happened. Pinch a leg at the thickest part between your thumb and finger; it shouldn’t feel soft or have much “give,” and if the crab is feisty and puts up a fight, all the better. The firmer the fresher, and if it’s quite soft, pass it by.

There are two methods of cooking live crab, both good, and both have their followers who would do it no other way. If you are new to crab cookery, e-mail me or leave a comment at the end of this column, and I’ll send you instructions for both, but right now let’s talk about what you can do with fresh- cooked crab meat, should you have any left over after the initial “right out of the pot” crab feed.

Here’s a delicious recipe from Tyler Florence of Food Network (one of my favorite TV channels). Wonton wrappers are great because you can be very creative with filling, but when it’s fresh crab inside, they’re sublime.

CRAB-FILLED WONTONS

2 inches of fresh ginger root, grated

2 shallots, chopped

1 green onion, chopped

½ carrot, chopped

2 T. fresh cilantro leaves

1 T. peanut oil

½ lemon, juiced

2 T. mayonnaise

1 lb. cooked crab meat

1 pkg. wonton wrappers

Egg white, for brushing wrappers

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Cornstarch, for dusting

Vegetable oil, for frying

For dipping sauce: ¾ cup soy sauce

3 T. dark sesame oil

3 T. rice wine vinegar

2 t, finely minced fresh ginger

Place first 7 ingredients (through lemon juice) in a food processor and pulse until finely processed and mixed. Place mixture in a bowl.

Add mayonnaise and crab to mixture and mix gently (don’t break crab up too much) and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Lay a wonton wrapper on a flat surface and brush with beaten egg white. Place 1 T. of the crab filling in the center of the wrapper and fold it in half corner to corner, forming a triangle. Press around the filling to push out any bubbles, then press edges of the triangle firmly together with either fingers or a fork. Be sure it seals, otherwise the filling will leak out during cooking. Lightly dust the wonton with cornstarch and lay on a cookie sheet. Repeat until all crab mixture is used.

In a large heavy saucepan, heat the vegetable oil to 375 degrees on a deep fry thermometer. Add a few wonton at a time (don’t crowd them) and cook, turning 3 to 4 times, until nicely browned. Remove with slotted spoon to a rack set over paper towels to drain.

Stir together the dipping sauce ingredients. Serve warm wontons with dipping sauce on the side.

I love quesadillas for the same reason that I love wontons, you can put almost anything inside and turn them into a meal, even easier that using wonton wrappers. Crab quesadillas are a quick, easy treat.

CRAB QUESADILLAS

Flour tortillas, 8 or 10 inch

Cooked fresh crab meat

Green onions, thinly sliced or chopped

Salsa; your preference. I prefer salsa verde, but use whatever pleases you, or leave it out

Grated cheese of choice (I like the Mexican 5 cheese mixture, or Asiago, or sharp cheddar; use what your family prefers)

Lay tortilla on flat surface. Sprinkle one half of the tortilla with some of the crab, a tablespoon or so of green onion and some cheese. Add a few small dollops of salsa, if desired. Fold the unfilled half of the tortilla over the filling.

In a large saucepan sprayed with cooking spray, fry the quesadilla until just lightly golden on each side, making sure the cheese is melty and ingredients are heated through. Transfer to a platter and keep warm until you are through making desired number of quesadillas. Serve with salsa on the side, a large tossed green salad and cold Mexican beer or sangrita, or whatever you prefer.

Note: You may find other ingredients you’d like to add, such as chopped avocado or chopped fresh tomato; feel free to add whatever is handy and you like, but don’t overwhelm the crab, which should be the star.

Another delicious but all-purpose base for many ingredients, from exotic to plain, is risotto, easy to do if you take just a little care, and it can be the centerpiece of a meal or a hearty side dish. Risotto with crab and tender spring asparagus would be the star on our dinner table.

CRAB ASPARAGUS RISOTTO

1 T. olive oil

2 T. unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped onion (or shallot, if preferred)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped or put through a garlic press

2 cups Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

6 cups broth (if you made crab broth from your shells, definitely use it; otherwise use chicken broth), heated (keep hot but not boiling on a burner while you’re making the risotto)

1 lb. thin asparagus spears (use only the thin tender “upper” half of the stalk)

8 oz. fresh cooked crab meat (more if you have it and want the risotto very crabby)

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Grated Parmeggiano Reggiano or Asiago cheese, for garnish, optional

Heat the olive oil and 1 T. of the butter in a heavy 4 qt. pot over med.-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to soften (2-3 min.; be careful not to burn the garlic). Stir in the rice, coating the grains and cook 1 minute longer.

Add the wine and stir until it is almost absorbed by the rice. Begin adding the broth, ½ cup at a time, stirring well after each addition, until the broth is almost all absorbed each time. (Here’s where you need a little care and patience.) Reserve 1/4 cup of the broth. When you are down to the last addition of broth, add the asparagus with it.

By the time all the broth has been added, the rice should be tender, but firm; test it and if it’s still too al dente, stir and cook a few minutes longer. When the rice is ready, turn off the heat, add the reserved 1/4 cup of broth, remaining tablespoon of butter, the crab meat, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well to combine ingredients. Serve immediately, garnished with grated cheese if desired, or pass the cheese on the side. Makes 4-6 servings.

Margaret Walton can be reached at falwalcal@msn.com.