Imagine living a life devoted to the most beautiful beaches, the bluest waters and the biggest waves in the world. A life that honors the Aloha spirit of Hawaii. A life that brings all these things together in the craft of shaping wood.
Imagine such a life also made you one of the most successful surfboard shapers in the world.
With his newest book, Langley writer Drew Kampion focuses on a man who is lucky enough to be living such a dream life.
“Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard,” follows the life of one of the greatest surfers of all time who parlayed his knowledge of the wave and the science of “wavecraft” into an extraordinary reputation as a master surfboard shaper and artist.
Kampion, who has been called “the dean of surf journalists,” has written and designed a book that includes an entertaining trove of colorful photographs, an interesting and well-researched story and a graceful tribute to Noll — a master surfer and wood craftsman — and the history of surfboards and the surfing life itself.
Kampion’s interest in surfing goes further than the athletic aspect.
“I see surfing as an art form,” Kampion said. “I see the surfer as having a relationship with the wave; it’s like a ballet.”
And Kampion said that artistic aspect extends to the board.
Kampion has done a thorough job of weaving the story of Noll’s life as a young surfer from 1950s Manhattan Beach, Calif. with the history of surfing. Noll came to be known as “Da Bull” because of his mythically bullish ability to ride the big waves. The book gracefully follows the path of his career as a major surfboard manufacturer, through the ascendency of surfing’s popularity and rounding it all out with a present-day portrait of Noll.
The book details the surfer-turned-businessman — and eventual family man and artist — who evolved from being a major player in the international production of surfboards to a homebody artist, shaping wood at home with his son, Jed, also a master shaper and surfer.
There in his quiet Crescent City, Calif. shop among the redwood forest, Noll produces what his imagination leads him to create; pieces that discerning art collectors, wood enthusiasts and surfing aficionados desire.
Kampion said he chose Greg Noll as his subject because he was so unique in the way he assimilated himself into Hawaiian culture. Noll lived up to his nickname and refused to give up even when the Hawaiians rejected him at first, Kampion said.
Noll learned from the masters and now he is one of a handful of craftsmen who make re-creations of ancient Hawaiian boards out of salvaged wood.
There are plenty of photos of Noll as a young man surfing and learning the business of shaping surfboards, as well as fine art photos of some exquisitely crafted and unique surfboards that seem more fit for prestigious art galleries than big saltwater waves.
There is also a good smattering of poster art, historic Greg Noll surfboards and vintage labels, oil paintings by Ken Auster that feature Noll as the subject, historical photos of other great surfers, plus photos of famous board collectors who are featured with their favorite pieces. Also included: many photos of Noll and his son Jed, shaping boards and board art in their shop.
“The Art of the Surfboard” also includes a history of the evolution of surfboards and construction techniques from ancient Hawaii to the modern era, including building balsa, foam and classic wooden surfboards.
The book is pleasurable and fun to browse not only because of the variety of art and photos, but also because Kampion is an experienced writer who knows his subject matter inside out.
Kampion is the former editor of Surfer, Surfing and Wind Tracks magazines and the author of “The Book of Waves,” “Stoked! A History of Surf Culture,” “Waves: From Surfing to Tsunami” and “The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf.” He is currently the American editor of the international periodical The Surfer’s Path.
With this book, Kampion said he wanted to explain the art of the surfboard shaper and how the hand of the shaper determines the beauty of the finished product.
“In large measure, surfboards remain some of the most ubiquitous hand-made products in the world,” Kampion said.
This book succeeds on all levels. Its portrait of Noll is nostalgic and engaging, the photos are entertaining, and there’s a font of information on surfing culture, the business of surfboard manufacturing and collecting, the history and art of surfing and the craft of shaping surfboards.
The book will appeal to surfers, wood enthusiasts, art collectors, nostalgia buffs and anyone who’d like to learn more about surfboards.
“Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard” is available online at www.amazon.com, at all major booksellers, and at The Moonraker Bookstore in Langley.
Patricia Duff can be reached at 221-5300 or pduff@southwhidbeyrecord.com.